Get rid of brown spots
Where did this come from ? Fifty percent of women between the ages of 35 and 59 are affected by the tasks. And, for 90% of them, it would feel worse than wrinkles. Why so much stress? Because they blur and "dirty" the complexion. Mistakenly called "age spots", actinic lentigines are the result of chronic sun exposure and are genetically dependent (if your mother has them, you're likely to get them too). Located mainly on the face, décolleté, hands and arms, these localized dysfunctions of the melanin factory can be superficial or deep, old or recent. The doctor will tell. And the result of the treatments (=the more recent and superficial it is, the more effective they are…).
Dermatological solutions:"This is the area of excellence of lasers and flash lamps or Intense Pulsed Light (IPL). One or two sessions are enough (200 € per session). When some stains persist, we come to do a local peel (a Spot Peel) with a swab (large cotton swab), just on the stain,” explains Dr. Niforos. Suites ? Small scabs, which fall after five days on the face and 10 days on the neckline and hands. Cheaper than the laser (80€), nitrogen also burns the stain and causes the same type of consequences (with small, slightly more visible crusts).
That's better to know:These dermatological solutions work well, even if they don't win every time. "It depends on how old the spots are and where they are located:for reasons we don't know, they are more difficult to get rid of on the décolletage and in the center of the face than on the hands and jaws," explains Dr. Catherine Melloul. In any case, there will be a recurrence, more or less intense and more or less rapid, depending on how you protect your skin from the sun afterwards.
Cosmetic solutions:no, creams do not make stains disappear. "Yes, they attenuate them by putting the melanocytes at rest and by blurring the color difference between the stain and its environment", explains Xavier Chirico, cosmetologist. And a reduction, even a slight one, already helps to change the appearance of the complexion. Provided you use them in twice-daily application and combine them with photoprotection, to be repeated at least once a day, ALL year round (even when it's gray and chilly, the worst enemy being visible light and UVA rays that pierce the clouds).
Good shopping
Winning trio. Salicylic acid exfoliates, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic acid prevents the extension of spots and Ellagic acid blocks the production of melanin. Advanced Pigment Corrector, Skin Ceuticals, 95€
Vitamin. Prevent and fade dark spots with a cocktail of exclusive active ingredients and Vitamin C. Dark Spots No More Serum Concentrate, Dr Brandt c/o Sephora, €55
BB Snow. A BB that has all the advantages of an anti-dark spot treatment. BB Cream Lightening Protection Diorsnow, Dior, €52.
Burst. Antioxidant, unifying and brightening active ingredients. Anti-dark spot Radiance Cream, Astalift, €65
Make skin with pregnancy mask
Where did this come from ? Also called Melasma, the pregnancy mask is linked to hormonal activation of pigmentation cells. It appears on rather dull skin, genetically predisposed to spotting, during pregnancy or due to taking estrogen-progestogens (=contraceptive pill or IUD impregnated with hormones). Located in the dermis, this deep pigmentation is difficult to remove. But... it is possible. Phew! As long as you are (very) diligent.
Derma solutions:what works best are repeated depigmenting peels, mainly those with glycolic acid (fruit acids). They remove accumulated melanin debris, have a regulating effect on cells and allow the penetration of depigmenting active ingredients (such as Kogic acid). The right pace? One per month for 3 or 4 months (about €200 per session), then we take a break, leaving the relay to cosmetics and we advise. We also use so-called "yellow paste" peels which block the melanin production chain. After application to the office, we go home to let it act from 8h to 12h. And we rinse (500 to 600 €). If necessary, in preparation for the peeling, the doctor can prescribe the Kligman trio for a fortnight. Prepared by the pharmacist, it mixes hydroquinone, cortisone and vitamin A acid. "The success of the treatment depends on the 'partnership' between the patient and the doctor:it is really the regularity and the assiduity in the treatment as much as the daily precautions taken against the sun that give results", explains Dr. François Niforos.
That, we avoid... Beware of products that are too aggressive (especially TCA peels) and / or formulated at a high concentration, because they expose you to a risk of a rebound effect:the task comes back, stronger. As for the laser, it should be excluded for the same reasons.
Good to know:Melasma can evolve for 10 to 20 years. Or go alone the first year...
Cosmetic solutions:the most important thing in the case of melasma is to put the melanocytes at rest and to protect the skin as much as possible from the sun. You can therefore use anti-stain products to avoid recurrences (see anti-stain shopping) but, above all, above all, you wear an SPF 50 screen on a daily basis to be renewed several times a day, even in town, even in winter... And , when the sun is beating down, we also adopt the glasses and the hat (not the micro-bibi, eh, the hat with a laaaarge brim!).
Gun down the gray complexion
Where did this come from ? It's a story of nature... of skin. Gray complexions concern epidermis with a thicker horny layer (often mixed to oily). However, it is the thickness that creates the alteration of the complexion.
Dermatological solutions:Again, a dull complexion is a very good indication of soft peels based on glycolic acid (fruit acids). Performed monthly or every two months, they activate cell renewal and tighten pores (€180 per session). "The protocol proposed at the Médispa (http://www.medispa.fr) combines a peeling and a vitamin A acid mask, all associated with good cosmetology:it's perfect for regaining radiance but also a nice skin texture,” says Dr. Niforos.
Good to know:75% of nicotine is eliminated through the skin and hair. So, thick skin + cig + sun =grey-green complexion.
Cosmetic solutions:Xavier Chirico, cosmetologist, advises "to moisturize well in the morning:it is essential on a dull complexion whose withered cells poorly reflect light. In the evening, we favor treatments with vitamin C or fruit acids, which smooth the skin surface and activate cell turnover to restore beautiful, brand new cells. Finally, we think of salicylic acid which, by acting on the secretion of sebum, refines the texture of the skin, always for a better reflection of light ". We also perform enzymatic scrubs and systematize ultra-hydrating masks.
Good Shopping
Light booster. Glycolic acid + vitamin C + depigmenting agents to sober up the complexion. Radiance anti stain and gray mine Radiance Revealer, Mediceutics, 65€
Radiance treatment. Anti-inflammatory, it exfoliates on the surface and deeply. Every evening as a one-month cure, La Crème Peeling de Nuit, Novexpert, €36
Sober up. As good on the gray complexion as on the spots for a nickel complexion in 2 months. Dreamtone, Integral 2 Spot Corrector, Lancôme
Anti-thirst.An ultra moisturizing fresh gel to raise the level of hydration. Anti-dryness mask 1, Ioma
Multi-functions. Unifying, anti-dark spots, anti-wrinkle and, above all, a radiance booster. Light Capital Serum, Clarins, €92.70
Mute scar spots
Where did this come from ? This is a problem for fragile matte and black skin. Who says small wounds (buttons, mainly), says inflammation, degradation of hemoglobin and therefore… tasks.
Dermatological solutions:The best solution to reduce these tasks as much as possible is to combine two techniques:peeling with glycolic acid (150 to 200€ per session, number of sessions to be determined with the doctor) + a cortisone preparation ( bleached the stain), prescribed by the doc.
That, we avoid:the laser and flash lamps, prohibited on black skin, whitening preparations sold on the sly (elsewhere than at the pharmacist and without a prescription), which literally gun down the skin.
Cosmetic solutions:here again, the number one enemy of scarring is the sun. So, we protect ourselves with a total screen, on a daily basis. If you expose yourself with a very fresh scar, you use drastic measures (and too bad for the look!):you put a small bandage on top of which you spread an SPF (because the sun's rays go through the bandage, Yes Yes). And we offer our skin repairing, soothing, anti-inflammatory and healing products at the slightest warning.
Good Shopping
Sensory SPF. Airy texture + maximum protection + glowy finish =the perfect screen. UV Essentiel Multi-Protection UV Anti-Pollution Daily Care SPF 50+, Chanel, €50
Soothe. The cult cuddly cream to repair and calm damaged skin. Filaderme Cream Intense Repair Nourishing Care, Embryolisse, €16.80
Recover.The multifunction balm that promotes recovery after skin damage.Cicaplast Baume B5 Soothing Recovery Balm, La Roche Posay, €8
Citrusing. It boosts the skin reconstruction process. Cicaexpert Epidermal Repair Accelerator Treatment, Payot, €29
Shoot rosacea on sight
Where did this come from ? Skins that blush are thin skins. Transparent, they reveal the blood that throbs under the flesh, the emotions, but also the small blood vessels, rosacea...
Dermatological solutions:by coagulating small vessels, the pulsed dye laser gives very good results on rosacea. The problem is treated in one to three sessions (€150 to €200 per session), with, as a result, small crusts that go away in a week and, rarely, a slight oedema. As it is a natural "tendency", it may come back. But, good news:it takes time (unless you force the peppers + the sun + the alcohol). The best thing is to treat rosacea as soon as it shows up. This way, we avoid the stress (and the complex) of accumulation.
Good to know:if the skin reddens in reaction to stress and emotions, the best solution is… to calm down! Too much stress damages the skin and increases its sensitivity, which can lead to eczema, psoriasis or even chronic dryness.
Cosmetic solutions:these mainly concern diffuse redness that they reduce with anti-inflammatory and vaso-constrictor active ingredients. As with all color problems, we also protect ourselves from the sun and the heat (which aggravates the phenomenon).
Good Shopping
Triple action. Stains, redness and micro-reliefs, an action on all color problems. Yves St Laurent Pigment Correcting Serum, €84.80
Temporary redness. Tinted powder texture with good coverage + vaso-constrictor active ingredients =instantly faded redness and a nice bare skin result. Sensibio AR BB Cream Anti-Redness SPF30, Bioderma, €14.50
Calming Serum.Watery texture, immediate calming effect, delicate fragrance:it's the super daily serum for irritated and reddened skin. Intral Anti-Redness Soothing Serum, Darphin, €58
Anti stress. In the target of this super moisturizer, all signs of internal and emotional stress of the skin. Skin Rescuer, Kiehl's, €35
