Many women "risk" sporting naturally gray hair to feel authentic, a new study finds. Researchers from the University of Exeter examined women who chose not to dye their gray hair, and found a "conflict" between looking natural and being considered competent. Study participants — mostly from English-speaking countries — belonged to online groups whose members showcase their natural gray hair, and the researchers noted “solidarity and sisterhood” among these women.
“We are all limited by society's norms and expectations when it comes to appearance, but expectations are stricter for women – especially older women,” said lead author Vanessa Cecil of the University of Exeter.
The 'old woman' is an undesirable character in Western societies because she is seen as incompetent or obnoxious – if she is seen at all. “In our study, we wanted to understand why some women choose natural gray hair.
“In the face of impossible standards to be natural and forever youthful, these women are doing what they can to maintain their status.
“While many reported negative consequences such as being ignored or treated as less competent, they also felt happier because they were 'flying their natural flag'.
“We also found that women chose to compensate for graying by adopting other beauty practices – so embracing gray is not the same as embracing to look old.
“Grey-haired and youthfully glamorous is one thing, but in Western societies it's still not okay to look old.”
Responses from the 80 participants, members of two Facebook groups about the transition to naturally gray hair, suggested that the most important trade-off was between authenticity and being perceived as competent.
Women indicated that they were ashamed – including family and friends – for being too natural (“letting themselves go”), but also wanted to avoid looking like they had tried too hard to hide their age (“wearing clothes that is designed for young people”).
Those who were supported by partners, family and friends had an "easier time" of transitioning to gray, Cecil said.
Many women have opted for naturally gray hair during COVID lockdowns – both because hairdressers are closed and because they spend less time in public, including at work.
“This appears to have accelerated a shift that was already underway, with more and more women choosing not to dye their hair,” said Cecil.