#Makeup:how to tame the glitter (without turning mirror ball)?

A survivor of the 90s, sequins are making a dazzling comeback this season in our make-up bags. How to make a makeup with glitter without overdoing it? Instructions for successful glitter makeup.

Mother-of-pearl shimmer sky blue on the eyelids, sequins on the lips and nails, sequins in layering on a smoky eye, silver highlight on the inner corners of the eyes... On the mouth, the nails or melted into the skin, the glitters> act as accessories.

Once reserved for American teenage girls, they were popularized and glamorized by make-up artists Way Bandy and Kevyn Aucoin in the late 80s. The following decade, they blended into transparent glosses and hairsprays to subtly give light.

"Today, technological advances are refining their size, their thickness and giving them more color dimension", rejoices Carole Colombani, studio makeup artist and YouTuber on the MakeUp Is Freedom channel. .

What glitter to use for makeup?

"Be careful, they exist in different forms, which are not used for the same thing", warned Carole Colombani, who regularly uses them on shootings.

For a very natural glow, as if radiating from the inside of the skin, we turn to micas because these minerals return the light with a very soft reflection. They are found in highlighters, creams, foundations and blushes. "Cream or powder, it doesn't matter, it depends above all on the result you want:a cream texture will blend better for more subtlety when a powder will be more glamorous", advises the make-up artist.

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For a slightly more shimmering shine, micronized glitter are barely wider than mother-of-pearl but much brighter. "By reflecting light in all directions, they create micro-flashes on the skin and are found in the latest generations of highlighters ", she explains.

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As for the classic glitter, it is applied as a top coat on an eyeshadow, flush with the eyelashes or in a light area such as the inner corner of the eye to give dimension to the look.

On which parts of the face can glitter be applied?

On the face, you can opt for a slightly pearly cream foundation, but studio makeup artists prefer to create a glow tailored. "Mix the equivalent of a grain of rice of micro-glitters in a good dab of moisturizer and lightly massage the face, neck and why not the shoulders", decrypts Carole Colombani. The flicker is not visible at first glance but only when moving.

To refresh the complexion, apply highlighter above the arch of the eyebrow, on the cupid's bow, on the chin and the bridge of the nose:"but especially not on the tip, it flattens the flat nose by optical illusion", insists the pro .

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For the eyes, we think of layering. A layer of pearly cream eyeshadow in the base and another of glittery powder eyeshadow in the topcoat gives dimension and depth to the look. "If you want to sparkle your eyelashes, always choose a mascara darker than your iris so as not to turn off the look:burgundy or emerald glitter in a black base for example", recommends our expert.

Another option:the brown pencil encrusted with hazelnut chips. "It gives a sparkle to the eyes, it's very luminous, more chic and subtle than a black pencil often glittering with silver".

On the nails, we push snobbery by adopting matte glitter , more elegant and which still give reflection to the manicure. Regarding the thorny question of the sequined mouth, it is better to avoid it if you have a life outside the catwalks according to Carole Colombani:"The sequins irresistibly attract the gaze and it is better to be looked at in the eyes."

How to apply glitter like a pro?

Sequins and pearls are not traditional pigments. They therefore apply differently. "They are affixed and do not sweep on the skin at the risk of crushing them and extinguishing their sparkle", according to our expert.

Moisten the area to be spangled with a brush soaked in thermal water. Pick up and apply the glitter with a foam or silicone applicator, which prevents them from falling by electrostatics. Then pat them with a fan brush on the complexion or flat and firm on the eyes. Fix the result by spraying a make-up fixer. Remove any that have fallen (on the ring for example) with a micro-porous plaster. This very light adhesive paper is used to fix bandages and can be found in all pharmacies.

To remove make-up, remove as much material as possible with the plaster to avoid rubbing the particles too much on the skin, which could abrade sensitive skin. Then massage the areas with a make-up remover oil that "captures" the glitter. Remove everything with a cotton ball soaked in micellar water, the micelles will magnetize the oil and the glitter it contains.