There are five of them:
1/ Permanent oxidation coloring is the most widely used. It provides a definitive color by oxidizing the hair (=opens the scales) to insert the pigment into the fiber.
2/ The lightening formulas save 3 to 4 tones while giving a nice color (weathered, subtle, shimmering, etc.). They work best on blond and brown hair.
3/ Discoloration is the strongest:thanks to a powerful oxidant (usually hydrogen peroxide), it removes all the pigments from the fibre. Radical, but very effective when you want to go from brown to platinum blonde.
4/ Tone-on-tone formulas are semi-permanent colors (=they end up washing out). They barely oxidize the fiber, so they can't lighten it, but they give a very natural result, beautiful reflections, and do not create a root effect by regrowing.
5/ Direct (or fleeting) colorings are temporary (they are eliminated in 2 to 6 shampoos). It's a bit like making up the hair. There are “classic” shades and flashy colors – which work especially on light hair. They can be purchased in salons (Blush Satine by Eugène Perma, Color Fresh at Wella, etc.) and in stores (such as Crazy Color on bleulibellule.com).
Direct formulas do not penetrate the fiber, so do not alter it. For others, it depends on their oxidation power:the more they open the hair scales, the more they weaken it. Tone on tone hardly raises awareness; discoloration opens the scales of the hair to death to remove the melanin. Good to know:with oxidation formulas, you need at least 3 weeks between each color, otherwise the hair becomes porous and the color is less beautiful.
They are less chemical (no ammonia, preservatives…) and the pigments are natural. They therefore sensitize the fiber and the scalp less. But since there is no oxidant in the organic colos and little in the natural ones, we forget the big changes. And natural pigments having warm tones, not all shades exist – even if there is something for everyone:golden blond, chocolate brown, mahogany chestnut, etc. These formulas (Color &Soin, K pour Karité, Logona, etc.) can be found in organic stores and in salons (Romain Colors, Schwarzkopf, etc.).
Thanks to Frédéric Mennetrier, L'Oréal Professional color consultant and colorist at Atelier Blanc (6, rue Mayran, Paris 9th), and to Romain, creator of the Romain Colors XXVII salon (27, rue La Boétie, Paris 8th). ).
